2026-11-09 · Watches And More
How do you change a watch’s proportions without losing its personality? Jacqueline Dimier’s answer was unusually direct. In Audemars Piguet’s published recollection, she describes preserving the Royal Oak’s character and wanting it to remain big despite prevailing women’s-watch trends. AP Chronicles identifies the result as Model 8638—the first women’s Royal Oak, also called Royal Oak II—launched in 1976. [S2] [S1]
💡 Did You Know?
Audemars Piguet gives the case diameter as 29 mm, with eight visible screws retained around the octagonal steel bezel. Inside, the company selected Calibre 2062, measuring just 15.4 mm across. The compact dimensions belonged to both the exterior design and the mechanism—not simply to a smaller dial. [S1] [S1]
There was an unexpected setting for its debut, too. AP Chronicles records that the Royal Oak II launched at Parisian jeweller FRED before its presentation at the Basel Fair, and describes the reception as an immediate success. [S2]
⭐ Why It Matters
AP Chronicles frames the design as a challenge to the feminine aesthetic codes of its period: steel, automatic winding and visible screws all remained. Its account also makes an important distinction about authorship. The project was already under way, but Dimier brought it to fruition through a major overhaul of proportions and aesthetic harmony. This institutional history credits her with resolving the design, rather than originating every part of the project. [S2] [S2]
❤️ The W&M Take
Our take: the most compelling part of this story is the distinction between reducing dimensions and reducing ambition. We think Dimier’s emphasis on proportions offers a useful way to appreciate design: ask not only what changed, but what the designer refused to surrender. For us, character is something to translate thoughtfully, not a feature reserved for one size or one audience.
Sources
Disclaimer: Every effort has been made to keep these watch facts accurate, but the world of horology is full of myths, disputed stories, and fascinating trivia. Consider these facts a starting point for discovery rather than the final word. If you have corrections or additional insights, let us know—we’re always happy to keep the record ticking in the right direction.
Read Next
- Why the Royal Oak’s Screws Aren’t Screws at All
- The Royal Oak Was Sketched Overnight Before Baselworld
Watches And More · Watch Fact Archive · Companion site
When a familiar watch design changes size, which detail most needs to survive: its geometry, material, movement or overall proportions?
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